Having made the break from well-trodden London to resettle in unexplored New Zealand a year ago, I decided my parents' visit would be the perfect opportunity to check out the much lauded beauty of the South Island, and to see if it was indeed warranted.

I needn't have doubted: the South Island, for me, offered so much more than just breathtaking scenery... adventure, culinary treats and a total change of pace were just some of the delights awaiting us.

The beginning of March was the perfect time for my parents to visit, offering welcome respite from the freezing and seemingly endless British winter. We took an early flight from Auckland to Christchurch one rainy morning, and from there picked up a sturdy Land Rover and headed for Queenstown, six hours away.

Along the way we passed lakes Tekapo and Pukaki, whose colour was unfortunately dulled thanks to the weather which remained stubbornly overcast, scuppering any chance to marvel at the view of Mt Cook.  

Winding through the impressive Lindis Pass as hawks glided gracefully above provided a stunning backdrop, though by this time we were looking forward to the evening's hearty feed.

Our arrival into Queenstown was marked by a small prang, the result of attempting to mount a hidden bollard, but the episode was hastily forgotten with dinner at The Bunker; a delightful restaurant with scallops and steak to die for, where we dined surrounded by pictures from James Bond films providing a welcome slice of nostalgia.

Early the next day we set off for a jet boat safari, which my mother in particular was very excited about. Unfortunately for us, the weather was still dishing out rain of the horizontal variety as we boarded the minibus to Glenorchy where our adventure was due to begin. At the Dart River Jet Safaris reception centre, we were given the option of being refunded or forging ahead, with the certainty that we'd get drenched... and in a boat going at high speeds, we were advised, the rain can feel like needles in the eyes.

My dad had heard enough, and hopped straight back on the coach to Queenstown. My mother, partner and I however, were up for the needle treatment. The trip included a guided bus tour of the flora and fauna, colonial history and geography of Glenorchy (views of which were mostly blocked by stubborn fog) but we did get to gawp at the set for the new movie Wolverine currently being shot there. Alas, Hugh Jackman was not in evidence.

Despite the fact my feet were soaked to the skin as soon as I set foot on the ground (courtesy of Adidas), the journey through the atmospheric virgin forest covered in moss we took to get to the boat was nothing short of magical. Very Lord of the Rings. Literally.

Then it was time to pose for one last picture and into the boat with us, sporting an attractive array of hats, life vests, anoraks and gloves. So began a thrilling tour of impressive waterfalls and hidden coves as we zoomed along the Dart river at breakneck speeds... bad weather or no, a great time was had by all. Drenched yet exhilarated, we headed back to base to regroup, dry off, and find my father (asleep on the couch).

As we went for a stroll alongside the gigantic expanse of water that is Lake Wakatipu, the clouds began to break and we finally got to see what all the fuss was about. As the mountain ranges in every direction were revealed to us, snap-happy was not the word. Amazing how a little light can completely change the mood of a place.

In the morning we headed for our next port of call - Te Anau, a small town around four hours' drive away. The drive started promisingly enough, with bright sunshine lighting up the valley providing plenty of photo opportunities but as we got deeper west the rain descended once more. So far, it seemed travelling through fog and drizzle had become the norm for this holiday.

We arrived at Te Anau just as it was bathed in sunshine and met our knowledgeable host, who recommended going to Milford Sound early the next day as the weather report, amazingly, predicted sunshine all day.

Te Anau is a lovely tranquil and picturesque town set on New Zealand's second largest lake - Lake Te Anau. Our family room overlooked the lake and we enjoyed wide sweeping views from our perch, counting the endless tour buses as they raced by.

That afternoon we went to catch a showing of Ata Whenua - Shadowland at the small yet perfectly formed Fiordland cinema. The short film takes you through an exhilarating journey showcasing the beauty of the stunning Fiordland wilderness and set us up for some of what we hoped to see in the area.

We left early the next morning in order to outrun the seemingly hundreds of tour buses that charge down to Milford Sound at max speed. We remained dubious of our host's assurances on the weather as we drove into a massive cloud of heavy fog.

As it began to evaporate, though, we felt our spirits lift; the sun as it hit the top of the mountains produced an awe-inspiring vista which even saw my mother taking pictures out of the car window as we sped along, impatient for the next photo stop.

Arrival in Milford Sound in time for the first boat at 10.30am was nothing short of a coup.

As the crowds were yet to arrive we were able to drift around the boat with plenty of room to spare.

With the sun gloriously beating down we were able to experience Milford Sound at its apparent best, though from the images I've seen there's also a lot to be said for seeing it in a subdued mood.

Thanks to the heavy rain of the preceding days, the Bowen and Stirling waterfalls put on thundering displays - the Bowen waterfall alone is over 50 stories high!

We managed to have a good look at the resident seals as they played in the water and also spotted some crested penguin heads bobbing on the water though the dolphins eluded us.

At the end of the perfect 1.5-hour boat tour we all agreed that visiting Milford Sound had been one of the highlights of the trip, and congratulated our good fortune to have been able to see it in all its glory, which certainly made a welcome change.

Heading back through the mountains towards the Homer tunnel we decided the return trip would be spent taking in all the sights we had sped past on the way there.

Helpfully marked on our map were several points of interest including Mistletoe and Mirror lakes which we enjoyed taking a tour around in the sun.

We arrived back at base at around 6pm that evening, exhausted after a full day, yet delighted that the weather had finally come through for us.

We spent the next day taking it easy around the lake, taking long walks and enjoying leisurely meals. Too soon, it was time to head back to Queenstown to ditch the car and return to Auckland.

I can only imagine the faces of friends forced to politely view the hundreds of photos that we took on the trip on the arrival home of my parents, yet even now, so many months later, memories of the South Island are treasured. We'll most certainly be back.

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